Veganism has got serious. Not only are new vegan foods now available in shops, but dedicated menus and teas are popping up in unexpected places and luxury restaurants.

Not that it’s an easy transition: the temperatures between traditionalists and the vegan pioneers are running high. The five-star Claridge’s hotel in Mayfair in London recently lost its chef after it rejected his vision for an all-vegan menu at his restaurant, the Davies and Brook. Chef Daniel Humm said he had decided to leave after having talks with the hotel’s management about transforming the kitchen to serve only plant-based dishes...