Iced out: the end of the frozen yogurt craze?
Hero of the dessert scene a couple of years ago, frozen yogurt is now a melting puddle. Adele Shevel has not been a neutral observer
It wasn’t all that long ago that self-serve frozen yogurt was the taste sensation and hottest food trend. Cast your mind back to wandering through a shopping centre and coming upon a glut of tweens, grandparents, even couples on dates, queuing to buy cups of swirled froyo smothered in everything from fruit (how dull) to 97 iterations of fudge. Perhaps you were one of these devotees. For a brief, frosty moment, it was the ultimate manifestation of sweet success.
There were small-scale operators everywhere — saccharine-hued pop-ups crammed into the spaces under shopping mall escalators even — and a few medium ones too. But interest really peaked when mega restaurant corporation Famous Brands bought 70% of Wakaberry, which had 33 stores at the time, with great fanfare and talk of expansion. It later took full ownership...