Marlon Brando and Al Pacino don’t live here. But Sicily makes us an offer we can’t refuse: to come and see for ourselves that the achingly beautiful, elegantly crumbling, rough-edged, warm-hearted island is not a Mafia movie set.

Even so, it doesn’t help that the climax of The Godfather Part 3 — when Mary, Michael Corleone’s daughter, is killed by a bullet meant for her father — was filmed on the steps of Teatro Massimo, the opera house that dominates the Piazza Verdi square and is the pride of Palermo.  ..

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