Sourdough bread, the oldest form of leavened bread, had its popularity reinvigorated by pandemic-era hobbyists, purported health benefits and artisanal bakers in pursuit of a perfectly aerated crumb, a caramelised crust and a distinct flavour.

Though the number of local sourdough sales don’t match the billions of standard white loaves bought by South Africans each year, it has seen a rise on supermarket shelves. That’s because supermarkets, never businesses to leave cash on the table, are finding ways to profit from the bread’s popularity, with labels shouting “sourdough” — and hefty price tags to match...

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