Butchers are not often credited with sensitivity. Perhaps it’s because they evoke images of slaughter, bloody aprons and even bloodier cleavers. Cornel Landman defies that concept. There’s a sensitivity when he discusses how his merchandise arrives on his shop’s shelves.

“Take a lamb,” he says. “There is little stress [when it is killed in his local abattoir]. But in the cities, these sheep can spend a long time on a truck just getting to the abattoir. That increases their stress levels.” And that stress affects the state of the product...

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