A gluten-free bunfight? Well, not quite. But a fierce battle is raging at the premium end of the food retailing market between Woolworths and Checkers. Both supermarket groups are claiming to have the upper hand — though independent observers differ about which one is actually advancing its market share.

Woolworths has long been the leading premium food retailer in the country. It has a reputation for quality, sustainability and top-tier product innovation, from organic to gluten-free and vegan. But its traditional stronghold no longer looks impenetrable...

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