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A hearse reverses slowly into the mortuary parking lot at Sally Mugabe Central Hospital, about 100m from the entrance to Zimbabwe’s main referral hospital. The stench of decomposition wafts through the air, an unpleasant reception for visitors to the facility.

“This smell is nothing out here,”  says Paul Chatikobo, a nattily dressed undertaker, looking up from his phone. “It’s intolerable inside.”..

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