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The best restaurant in the world is Geranium in Copenhagen.
At Geranium, the speciality is seasonal Scandi food, served on the eighth floor of a football stadium with views of a park. It was opened in the middle of the financial crisis in 2010. “All odds were against us,” said chef and owner Rasmus Kofoed, in a speech after he won.
It’s the second year in a row that a restaurant from the capital of Denmark was at the top of the list. Last year, Noma won the number-one spot.
The world’s second-best restaurant this year is Central, in Lima. Number three is Disfrutar in Barcelona.
The award ceremony took place in London at Old Billingsgate, a repurposed fish market on the Thames in the midst of London’s brutal heatwave. The event was hosted by actor Stanley Tucci.
Some past number-one winners, including Jean Roca of El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, Spain, popped in throughout the ceremony to present awards. The most surprising was Will Guidara, the former co-owner of Eleven Madison Park, who had a well-publicised split with chef Daniel Humm, current owner of the restaurant, which was recently hit with negative press about staff wages.
In February, The World’s 50 Best Restaurants announced it was moving the awards from the original location in Moscow in a swift response to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine. There are no restaurants in Russia on this year’s list, though last year there were two Moscow spots in the top 30. (Russian voters were included; the voting took place before the war in Ukraine, according to William Drew, director of content for The World’s 50 Best Restaurants.)
Former winners are not eligible to win again. That notably includes Noma, which has won the award five times, including last year. It now features in a “best of the best” category that includes Mirazur in the south of France. The French eatery won in 2019 and was the “world’s best” restaurant for two years, because the awards were cancelled in 2020 as a result of the pandemic.
With Eleven Madison Park also in the emeritus category, the top US restaurant is New York’s Korean tasting-menu destination Atomix at number 33.
Asia, having been hit particularly hard by pandemic restrictions, just made the top 20 with Den in Tokyo. Last year, multiple Asian restaurants were in the top 10.
This year’s rankings were compiled from the votes of 1,070 people in the food industry, from 27 regions around the world.
The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list is organised and compiled by UK-based William Reed Business Media. The list started in 2002 in Restaurant magazine.
The second half of the list, places ranking 51-100, was announced in early July. Winners included the Mexican-accented Kol in London, from Noma alum Santiago Lastra, as a new entry at number 73. Another London restaurant, Brat, came in at 81, despite landing in the number-three position on the Estrella Damm National Restaurant Awards earlier this year.
“One to watch” went to AM par Alexandre Mazzia in Marseilles, France, which has three Michelin stars and features an African-accented menu. Among the other dedicated awards, one went to #CookforUkraine founders Olia Hercules and Alissa Timoshkina as “champions of change.”
The last time a restaurant from the Middle East featured on the list was 2016, when the Dubai branch of a France-based chain, La Petite Maison, was number 99. This year, the region’s restaurants were more prominent: the experimental Trèsind Studio jumped onto the list as a new entry at number 57. Another Dubai spot, Orfali Bros Bistro, was number 87. Not coincidentally, The Worlds 50 Best Restaurants introduced Middle East & North Africa’s 50 Best Restaurants earlier this year.
This year’s list also features an unusually high number of new entries, 28 in total, and 20 in the 51-100 list alone. “The gastronomic landscape has changed significantly since the last full year of voting,” said Drew. He notes that there are many reasons why some regions have a lack of representation, which can range from varying Covid-19 restrictions to “shifting culinary tastes”. Or, he added, “it could also represent that a geographical area is becoming more important.”
Here are the winners (with last year’s place in parentheses) as well as the previously announced winners from 51 to 100. A new appearance on the list is marked by “NEW ENTRY.”
Alcalde, Guadalajara, Mexico (68)
Sud 777, Mexico City (56)
D.O.M., São Paulo, Brazil (61)
Lyle’s, London (33)
Azurmendi, Larrabetzu, Spain (49)
La Colombe, Cape Town, SA (81)
Trèsind Studio, Dubai *NEW ENTRY
Alleno Paris au Pavillon Ledoyen, Paris (41)
Sazenka, Tokyo (75)
Rosetta, Mexico City *NEW ENTRY
La Grenouillère, La Madelaine-Sous-Montreuil, France (91)
Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare, New York (55)
Fu He Sei, Shanghai
Le Du, Bangkok (72)
Sühring, Bangkok (40)
Evvai, São Paulo *NEW ENTRY
Kjolle, Lima (95)
Cosme, New York (22)
Zén, Singapore *NEW ENTRY
Mingles, Seoul, South Korea (62)
Atelier Crenn, San Francisco (48)
Kol, London *NEW ENTRY
Blue Hill at Stone Barns, Pocantico Hills, N.Y.
Samrub Samrub Thai, Bangkok *NEW ENTRY
Neighborhood, Hong Kong *NEW ENTRY
Table by Bruno Verjus, Paris *NEW ENTRY
Lasai, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil (85)
Estela, New York
AM par Alexandre Mazzia, Marseilles *NEW ENTRY (One to Watch Award)
Brat, London (78)
Sézanne, Tokyo *NEW ENTRY
El Chato, Bogota, Colombia (80)
Gimlet at Cavendish House, Melbourne *NEW ENTRY
Raan Jay Fai, Bangkok *NEW ENTRY
Mikla, Istanbul, Turkey (60)
Orfali Bros Bistro, Dubai *NEW ENTRY
Mishiguene, Buenos Aires *NEW ENTRY
Máximo Bistrot, Mexico City *NEW ENTRY
Wolfgat, Paternoster, SA (50)
Oriole, Chicago *NEW ENTRY
Indian Accent, New Delhi (82)
Hertog Jan at Botanic Sanctuary, Antwerp *NEW ENTRY
Burnt Ends, Singapore (34)
Meta, Singapore *NEW ENTRY
Mani, São Paulo
Benu, San Francisco (28)
Flocons de Sel, Megeve *NEW ENTRY
Wing, Hong Kong *NEW ENTRY
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