New York — Hot-smoked, cold-smoked, lemon-peppered, everything bagel-ed, kippered and candied. At Brooklyn-based Acme Smoked Fish, smoking salmon is an art with dozens of permutations.

The company produced 6.8-million kilograms of smoked fish in 2018, more than 4-million kilograms of which were salmon. Whitefish is also popular. Acme’s herring, which comes pickled, creamed and in wine sauce, is another fan favourite. Sable, a smoked black cod known for its buttery texture and astronomical price tag, is also among the offerings...

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