Wine may not be the most profitable field of human endeavour, but it could be among the most rewarding: if you’re a viticulturist, optimising the quality of your grapes is a perpetual and intriguing challenge. If you’re a creative winemaker, every year is different and your task is to select and assemble the fruit in such a way that you produce the best and most interesting artefact of the vintage. If you’re in marketing and sales, your working environment is in a constant state of flux. For critics and commentators the nuances are endless, while consumers are presented with an infinite and ever-growing number of choices.

While wealth is probably not what brings people to wine, there are obviously highly profitable ventures — though most are a clever combination of strategic skill and the cynical exploitation of the gap that it opens up. There’s nothing wrong with that. However, if the producers of these sometimes extraordinary brands were relieved of the need to make them fro...

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