As the end of the summer holidays approaches, even the most dedicated wine drinker is likely to consider putting on the brakes for a bit. Those who have done nothing more arduous than make gins and tonics before lunch, followed by flattening many of their best bottles through languid afternoons might be considering going “dry” in January.

This, incidentally, is not necessarily a good idea: an American hepatologist has argued that the enzymes used by the liver to process alcohol need to be kept “in training”. Moderate ongoing consumption may therefore be wiser than going “cold turkey”...

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