In a brief exchange on X (formerly Twitter), WineMag’s Christian Eedes declared his preference for Boekenhoutskloof’s Stellenbosch cabernet over the same cellar’s Franschhoek cabernet. Since he had given both wines the same score, he was asked to explain himself. His response was that the Stellenbosch cabernet had “more grunt”.

Allowing for the moment that this distinction is real and consistently discernible, we have here an observation that shines a spotlight on the importance of appellation (or place/origin) in the world of agriculture. This is why the Italians seek worldwide protection for Parmesan cheese and San Daniele ham and the French for Champagne and Poulet de Bresse. It’s not (just) about production method: it’s about how the origin imbues the finished product with its unique characteristics...

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