A decade ago, plodding in the early December heat, we navigated the winding road towards Eko Bridge, not far from the busy Lagos Lagoon near Apapa port. It became clear that this area was the economic centre of it all, with all of the vibrancy of Nigeria and its many triumphs and tragedies.

In bumper-to-bumper traffic it became clear to all of us how important oil was here. In the air-conditioned Japanese sedan a colleague and I marvelled at how busy it all was, with all manner of people eking out a living — making room for themselves where no room had been intended for them...

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