Virunga National Park has long been at the top of my personal bucket list. It’s a verdant, mountainous conservation area — one of Africa’s most biodiverse — in the east of the Democratic Republic of the Congo.

Sadly, Virunga is arguably as notorious for its history (and present) of conflict, as it is famous for being home to a third of the world’s remaining mountain gorillas. Of course, it is the endangered great apes that keep visitors (and their lovely, useful tourist dollars) coming, despite the threat rebel militias pose to tourists, residents and rangers alike...

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