Most wine industries are dynamic: stasis is deadly (though it doesn’t follow that edgy constitutes proof of life). To misquote Thom Gunn: “One is not necessarily nearer by not keeping still.”

When it comes to innovation in wine we tend to think of Old World producers sticking to their tried and tested ways while New World producers, imbued with a sense of adventure and change, use only the most modern technology. This caricature of stagnation may have been true of the major French appellations 40 years ago, but the Cape, Australia, Chile and Argentina appellations were hardly cutting edge then either...

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