It used to be fashionable to point out that though the Cape wine industry prided itself on its red wines, its whites were much finer. This, so the cynics with more than a passing interest in sport liked to observe, was not unlike the national obsession with Springbok rugby, no matter how bad, at a time when the Protea cricket team dominated the international leader board.

Curiously, the current reversal in the standings of these national sports teams coincides with a similar turnaround in the stature of the two main categories of wine...

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