One day a copywriter briefed to produce a pay-off line for the Cape wine industry might try to get away with the old chestnut “expect the unexpected”. He wouldn’t be wrong.

A few weeks ago I attended a tasting organised by a distributor handling wines from a number of small to mid-size wineries. There were only a couple of new brands. Most of what was available came from relatively well-known producers. I planned to do a quick circuit of the room before heading off...

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