MICHAEL FRIDJHON: Big wineries face a poser in cutting it with craft products
Brand messages can get confusing when small batches emerge from large operations
Wine brands (as opposed to wine labels) create expectations about what is in the bottle, which is why it behoves critics to form their judgments in a blind tasting.
When you approach a wine in a sighted environment you are expected to have preconceptions, otherwise the marketing people have failed in their task. Since the aesthetics of taste are far more subjective than most of our other judgments, we are all more susceptible to the subliminal messaging associated with a brand’s attributes.