How predictable is brand when it comes to determining wine quality? Put another way, should the better-known brands readily submit their wines to the potentially more objective world of blind tasting?

I say “objective” because the reality is that wine is performance art, and even the best made examples don’t always perform as they should on the day. For that matter, neither do the best palates, or the best panels. When brand image is at risk, there’s a temptation to preserve the investment in brand-building and risk the absence of an independent endorsement...

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