“Origin” is a seriously misused word in the world of wine. It can be so loosely applied that it becomes meaningless in the context of the connection between place and taste, or so narrowly applied that it’s impossible to obtain the product that expresses it.

Most Cape wine is sold with the broadest of appellations on the label. Producers — especially the major wholesalers (whose customers don’t appear to care much about it) — don’t want to be at the mercy of those who own the key sites.

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