A surge of creativity from the country’s wine producers over the past 15 years has seen forgotten vineyards and neglected appellations brought back into the limelight. Inevitably, one region’s (or style’s) gain is another’s loss, at least in terms of media interest, though not necessarily in terms of volumes consumed.

Cap Classiques (bottle-fermented sparkling wines made in accordance with the rules established in Champagne for Champagne) are selling well enough, averaging about R120 per bottle — they’re just not getting much attention. Generally they represent great value, considering they cost more to produce than most other wine styles and attract higher excise duties...

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