You don’t have to be a golfer to understand the addiction: whatever else they’re doing as they chase the little white ball around the course, golfers compete with themselves. Since the only perfect score for a round is 18, and since no one has managed to get below three times that score, even the best result comes with ample room for improvement. The better you do, the better you think you can still do. No matter whether you’re on a course for the first time or you’re playing at home, every round is different. Every time you step up to the first tee, even the most familiar territory brings countless nuanced variations. I’m not sure if there is an accurate statistic showing how many winemakers are golfers, but I’d hazard a guess that the correlation between the two is disproportionately high. The activities involve the same madness, the same quest for perfection, the same theme of (wo)man versus nature. Unless as a winemaker you’ve slipped into the easy life of industrial winemaki...

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