In the arcane world of wine geek bickering, the question of scores occupies a disproportionate amount of territory. Those who, like me, are parsimonious in allocating points suggest that no useful purpose is served in scoring hundreds of current vintage wines in the 95- to 100-point range. There’s not enough differentiation, there’s no room for the truly exceptional, there’s no real benchmarking if hordes of products are deemed “world class” within weeks of release. Just as employers have become deeply suspicious of the value of a matric certificate in an era where the pass rate hovers around 75%, so wine drinkers are entitled to doubt the value of a standard that can be so easily attained. Those who are more generous argue that their mean-spirited colleagues have failed to recognise the brilliance that they have been able to discern. There might be some truth to this, though the more cynical commentators observe that high scoring is merely self-promotion. The problem is that whoeve...

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