Lord Tennyson held that in spring "a young man’s fancy lightly turns to thoughts of love". In SA, however, spring is auction season. On September 7 and 8 Nederburg hosts the opening salvo; three weeks later the Cape Winemakers’ Guild wraps up proceedings. It would take a very distant relationship with the truth to describe the wines on offer at either sale as vinous bargains. Prices — even in these dark times — will average between R600 and R1,000 a bottle. While Nederburg combines an ever-smaller array of older wines with younger, current releases, the Cape Winemakers’ Guild’s focus is pretty much freshly bottled stock. The auctions operate with a similar culling system to ensure a rigorous quality standard. Nederburg employs the services of independent experts (of which I was one, with several brought in from abroad) to sift their submissions in a blind tasting; the guild’s members perform a similar function — also tasting blind. While neither process is methodologically perfect, ...

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