LIQUID INVESTMENTS
MICHAEL FRIDJHON: Tracking wines over vintages keeps tabs on evolution
The interest is less in the producers themselves than in the way the sites from which they obtain their grapes express themselves
There are not many wines I buy when the new vintage is released: I’m not a collector, I don’t need to assemble an unbroken vertical for the mere sake of having the wines. Those who make collections become the victims of them: they cannot open a bottle without destroying the completeness of the line-up. I knew someone who bought every Mouton Rothschild starting from the late 1940s hoping to assemble a complete vertical back to the first of the artist series vintages. He died without completing the collection, and without having drunk a single bottle. There are exceptions, wines I buy (or try to buy) religiously every year. I do so to see what the latest releases bring and to track the evolution of the older wines — tested against their initial promise. In a way, the interest is less in the producers themselves than in the way the sites from which they obtain their grapes express themselves. This may seem a very arcane route to wine enjoyment but it’s enough of an adventure to deserve...
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