A few weeks ago I received a press release hyping the results of a tasting hosted by a local wine distributor and retailer. The "judges" were the company’s well-heeled clientele and the line-up had been selected from local wines selling for R1,000-R2,000 a bottle. This must seem like a marriage made by Tinder, a perfect match of luxury-looking wines paired with a roomful of wealthy bidders — useful perhaps as dipstick research but valueless noise in the world of wine communication. If you wanted to determine the attributes men seek in women and chose to conduct a survey at Hooters on a Friday night, you shouldn’t be surprised to find "large chest measurements" finishing high up on the list. You wouldn’t use this information in a marriage guidance practice. Then there’s the question of the only entry criterion for the wines: all the submissions had to be on the market for at least R1,000 per bottle (and not more than R2,000 — "in order to keep the wines affordable"). If bust size is ...

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