With wine — as with most ephemeral objects of taste — there are no absolutes. When there is unanimity about the features of a particular sample on the tasting bench, there will be different levels of appreciation about its qualities. This doesn’t mean that judging can safely be left to the barflies at a gentleman’s club, but it does suggest that anyone who wishes to pontificate about a set of professionally arrived at results should be circumspect in finding fault with it. The 2018 Platter Guide is out and with it the list of its top ratings, the coveted five-star awards. The guide is not the buyer’s bible it once used to be: fewer copies are sold as print-based publications succumb to the ready immediacy of the online environment. However, the effort that goes into identifying SA’s top wines helps to position it as an important arbiter of what is good in the Cape wine industry. It’s worth understanding how the final five-star wines are selected. Platter guide tasters rate, in a sig...

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