If you’re one of those people who believe that craft always trumps performance, this column is not for you. If a hand-made — but ill-fitting — shirt is what you would buy in preference to a perfectly comfortable factory-produced garment, your belief in the value of the artisanal is your sustaining world-view. Flea-market sandals and blisters bring more to your life than foot comfort, hand-milled stone-ground bread justifies an extra 10km trek on a daily basis, craft gin will always taste better than the branded alternative. If at least you are open to persuasion, if you place comfort before craft, taste before principle, empirical before superstition, there’s room to go on.A great deal of wine is produced in SA for what we used to call (at university in the 1970s) the Swazi-print brigade. The vineyard names usually include an interesting geographical or geological feature, often described in 18th century Dutch (it’s worth reflecting on the fact that in pursuit of the authentic, wine...

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