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MICHAEL FRIDJHON: Feted new wave of wine makers have a zest for storytelling
The ‘narrative luxury’ of origin and the story behind what finally emerges from the bottle is at least as important as the taste
Much has been written lately about SA’s new-wave wine makers, with a number of articles on Jancis Robinson’s website in the past week alone (and literally hundreds of thoughtfully assembled tasting notes available to Purple Pages subscribers. Many of the wines are produced in minuscule quantities, often from sites identified by The Old Vine Project inspired by viticulturist Rosa Kruger and underwritten by Johann Rupert — a gesture of considerable generosity that deserves greater recognition than it has received. There is no easy definition of what constitutes this "new wave". Judging from the group that made such a huge impact in London recently, it’s a spread that runs from the one-barrel wonders to the more established producers who make everything from small parcels to high-volume commercial wine. If there is a common thread it is the sense of craft that unites the submissions. Your day job may oblige you to put together large volumes of well-priced drinking wines whose productio...
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