Notwithstanding the New Testament injunctions about the virtues of old wine, most modern-day consumers seem perfectly happy to flatten their wine purchases within 24 hours of getting home with the stock. Many claim that they like the taste of young wine. As more people fall in love with the joys of primary fruit, it’s likely that fewer consumers will know or come to understand the secondary and tertiary flavours present in properly matured wine. Winemakers have responded (sometimes with indecent enthusiasm) to this trend, happy to pocket the cash benefits arising from instant drinkability. Not all young wines have meaningful long-term potential, and cash in the bank wins every time against reputational dividend in the hands of future generations. It must be said, however, that the current incumbents of long-established estates do very well out of their ancestors’ willingness to defer a portion of current revenue in the investment of aged stocks.The cost to the producer of maintainin...

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