LIQUID INVESTMENTS
MICHAEL FRIDJHON: Old masters guide young guns to craft nuanced pinots
"The job of the wine maker is to coax from the vineyards their best possible expression"
The Young Guns, Young Turks, Lunatic Fringe — and whatever other monickers are used for the latest generation of wine producers — have been garnering much publicity lately. Some of this is due to the fashion that holds new is always "cutting edge". It was therefore something of a pleasant surprise to taste wines in the past few weeks from some of the country’s best-established pinot producers, united by a common history, a common appellation and a common focus. The first of these visitors to the Big Smoke was Peter Finlayson, the Finlayson part of Bouchard Finlayson and founding wine maker of Hamilton Russell Vineyards and therefore the pioneering Hemel-en-Aarde Valley cellarmaster. Fashionable though it is to celebrate the adventurous spirit of the young, especially the courage and daring that comes from having little or nothing to lose, when it comes to wine there’s a serious premium attributable to experience. Of course, it’s only worth venerating the less youthful when they have...
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