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MICHAEL FRIDJHON: Glenelly’s mature wines hold their own alongside classics
Glenelly’s formula appears to be one that is working
It is getting harder for producers (and wine-producing nations, for that matter) to make a statement that provides evidence that their stature in the world of wine needs to be recalibrated. The classic such event was the 1976 Judgment of Paris tasting, where the best Californian wines were pitted against leading French examples. In those days, France dominated the upper echelons of the wine business, so when the Californians romped home against a very credible line-up of Old World big guns, wine drinkers everywhere were forced to recognise that the US west coast was no longer a vinous backwater. Austrian producers did something similar to show that their gruner veltliner grape can compete against the best white burgundies (a bit of an apples-and-pears comparison since the French wines are made from chardonnay). What astonished many of the experts who participated in this exercise was how hard it was to tell aged examples of the two varieties apart. Wine producers – mainly from the N...
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