SA always promoted itself as red wine country. Before the 1980s, when more than 70% of the national vineyard was planted to white varieties, the only cultivar that mattered was cabernet sauvignon — even though it represented less than 3% of the plantings.

Red wines were made from cinsaut, with a splash of cab, pinotage or shiraz to add colour or the impression of vinosity. Chenin dominated the whites — at one stage it accounted for about a third of all our vineyards. Not far behind were the grapes used to make brandy: colombard, ugni blanc and clairette blanche...

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