Only the bravest of food critics would dare to write their own cookbook. Having spent your career nit-picking and complaining, and mocking the efforts of hard-working chefs and restaurateurs, why would you expose yourself to similar treatment from your victims?

Jay Rayner, who is one of Britain’s most respected — and best-known — food critics and now also writes for Financial Times, got around this problem by writing a book that is a homage to the best chefs he has encountered in the UK and further afield...

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