“People don’t change Hopefield; Hopefield changes people,” a young farmer said at a market there, responding to a question about whether there had been a recent inflow of people seeking a simple life in this little town.

I had an inkling of what he meant after an earlier visit, when it began to exercise a gravitational pull, exerted partly but not entirely by the erratic and exuberant sound of church bells late at night. Now I was back to explore this intriguing town inland of Langebaan on the west coast.  ..

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