Coy restaurant is aptly named. Opened in August last year by Ryan Cole, the executive chef at Salsify at the Roundhouse, it prides itself on being “hidden in plain sight” at Cape Town’s Victoria and Albert Waterfront.

Coy by name, and by nature, it doesn’t offer up its gastronomic pleasures easily: a map app is required to find its location near the waterfront’s Bascule Bridge and, settling breathlessly into a seat in the restaurant’s darkened wood interior I discover several missed calls from Temba Bavuma’s management team. The Proteas Test and one-day cricket captain is also lost and a little confounded. He arrives 15 minutes late for our appointment, apologetic but breathing easy despite the brisk walk — as befits an international sportsman...

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