Tides of change on Mozambique’s ancient island capital
Crime-wary South Africans will find themselves casting off their habitual vigilance in this peaceful haven
04 September 2024 - 05:00
As Paolo Israel and Annachiara Forte describe Ilha de Moçambique over a plate of pastéis de nata (Portuguese custard tarts) at their kitchen table, I start itching to be at my laptop booking plane tickets to the tiny coral island on that country’s northern coast.
With the Cape Town winter pressing up against the couple’s window, they conjure up vistas of a sun-baked coastline, breakfast on a Swahili roof terrace, the melancholy of the island’s slavery past and Indian Ocean monsoon winds bringing traders to East African shores as far back as 1,000 years ago...
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