Transvaal president Paul Kruger might have died 120 years ago but he lives on in his restored farmhouses about 20km northwest of Rustenburg, in the grounds of Kedar Heritage Lodge, on land belonging to Recreation Africa.

Driving through the gate I felt my Joburg-stressed shoulders ease as I slowed right down to take in the scrubby thorn trees and brown tufts of bushveld grass, with koppies in the distance...

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