Things have changed in the 13 months since I last visited the tiny Free State village of Rosendal.

The potholed roads leading here have grown more derelict, yet so many people have braved the journey that more than 30 properties or plots changed hands in 2021. That’s a huge number in a town of about 100 residents. A boutique hotel has opened, several homes have been converted into guest houses and some renowned artists launched a contemporary gallery. The new outdoor activities centre hires out bicycles and can book tours such as the Holkrans Sunset Experience, in which you watch the sun burn out in glory from a cliffside cave...

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