A pungent whiff of elephant poo tickles my nose as I sit on the deck outside my tented bedroom.

Eleven elephants are standing quietly in the mud 100m away, with another jauntily strolling down to join them. They’re drawn by fresh water bubbling out of the ground in a “seep” right in front of my room at Deteema Springs, a luxurious tented camp in Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park...

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