Sometimes the wine industry — and those who write about and “explain” wine — do the beverage more of a disservice than the Prohibitionists who dominate the National Coronavirus Command Council. (I can’t resist giving the NCCC its full and magisterial name: it helps to maintain the illusion that someone or something is actually in charge of things).

Let’s start with tasting notes. Research shows that even the most astute tasters cannot distinguish more than three or four different fruit aromatics. Nevertheless, the following note, written by Master of Wine Greg Sherwood, was published on a commercial site, presumably in an attempt to encourage purchase. (This is only the first part of the note. I’ve left out the bit about “mineral tension and harmony” as well as the food pairings)...

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