Lockdowns are never a good time to be enthusing about wines the National Coronavirus Command Council has ruled beyond the reach of those wishing to buy them legally.

Happily a series of conversations with Dr Paul Cluver (who established the modern Elgin wine region, as well as the eponymous wine business now run by his son) provided several interesting insights about how it all happened. It’s not often that in the lifetime of one person a significant wine of origin gets properly established, and it’s even rarer when the person who was central to the process has the memory — and documentation — to fill out the details...

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