Producers naturally sing from their hymn sheets: if you are in the volume wine business you praise the importance of stock continuity; if your grapes come from your own vineyards you present site or terroir as the defining feature of fine wine. Between these two positions it sometimes appears as if there is an unbridgeable chasm.

In Burgundy, which is the ultimate patchwork quilt of single-site claims, a distance of 10m can translate into a fivefold increase (or decrease) in the price of a bottle...

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