It started as one of those desultory discussions about estates that each year produce several wines from essentially the same varieties. Why would you dissipate your efforts in this way, someone asked. This led in turn to the oft-expressed ideal that an estate should have a single wine (or at least a single red, and perhaps a single white). Several wineries that launched in the 1990s made this their stated aim.

The single red/single white model was pretty much how Bordeaux used to operate until recently. Producers in the red wine regions sold their estate red wine and nothing else, likewise those in the white wine areas. Those in the Graves, home to both red and white wine, managed both. ..

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