We’ve often played “choose three cuisines” around the supper table. Well, who hasn’t? It’s fun because it’s more mind-bending than you initially think: when it comes down to the wire, choosing only three cuisines from the world’s array is a high-stakes business.

I always end up including Chinese, and it’s purely for one reason: Yum Cha. Yum Cha — literally “to drink tea” — is the originally Cantonese meal that’s sometimes referred to as dim sum, though in truth dim sum (which translates as something close to “touch the heart”) refers to the components; the tiny dumpling and other tapas-sized delights that make up the repast. Yum Cha is what high tea can only wish to be.

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