With festive season tables around the corner, hams are piling up on supermarket shelves. There are free-range options on almost all other meats (albeit a far lower percentage than you’d expect, given the song and dance that retailers make about it) but in matters of the swine, things haven’t improved much.

Industrial pork production is arguably lowest on the scale when it comes to animal-welfare farming. Yet the cleverness of pigs means that they really should be up for some elevated treatment. Apparently we’re not supposed to be specieist, but let’s be real, intelligence is sentience, and that should come into it. How could it not?..

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