Most people agree that the Cape wine industry is a vastly different proposition now compared with the 1990s. We take this for granted, having witnessed its achievements close-up and continuously over the period.

It’s a little like being aware of — rather than tracking — the minutiae of your children growing up. You’re certainly more conscious of change when your exposure to it follows extended absences. You don’t expect to recognise your cousin’s children — who have been living feral in the Appalachians — when you see them for the first time in two decades.

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