The line-up of wines on my tasting bench appeared almost a coincidence: the bottles had arrived from the producers’ cellars a few days earlier, and because they were not destined for blind tasting they were put out alongside each other.

Three were from Fairview, the final one from Klein Constantia. The Fairview wines were all part of a new passion of the creative Charles Back: vinification in the most ancient of all winemaking vessels, Georgian qvevri (or kvevri). The Klein Constantia was the latest release (the 2016) of the estate’s most famous wine, the Vin de Constance...

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