Plant-based — a hold-all term we’re being swamped by, for foods not containing animal products — is apparently going to save the world. That much seems to be very firmly lodged in the collective mind of well-to-do urbanites.  The divisions of the world into animal, vegetable and mineral is as old as the hills, and is undeniably logical, but when it comes to the current problems with our food production and the possible solutions, these categories aren’t too useful. Why? Because something being plant based per se, in no way responds to the problems. ‘Plant-based’ tells you almost zero about that item’s environmental impact. In fact, the halo around the term is allowing ‘conventional’ industrial crop farming to keep up its destructive game; now cast in the same light as well farmed ‘plant-based’ foods.

Suddenly, we’re less interested in whether the item is grown well, and more concerned that what we’re eating is ‘plant-based’.  To choose something on the basis of what it isn’t ...

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