Apart from Adam and Eve and Snow White’s troubles with apples, and the cherry scene from The Witches of Eastwick, everything about fruit feels life-giving, real and “pure”. Fruit has had such great PR over the past decades that disembodied fructose started appearing in health shops as an apparently great alternative to refined sugar of the sucrose sort. But, in fact, both fructose and fruit need a slightly more jaundiced examination.     

The first problem is that the way we eat fruit now is not the way we used to. Many fruits have been bred to contain more sugar, plus a vast array of fruit is over-abundantly and unnaturally available all year round. It’s sweet, it’s delicious, we’re being told it’s good for us, so we’re bound to eat too much of the stuff...

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